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1770: The Town of…

Posted by daveb on May 5th, 2009

Like “The Artist Formerly Known As… “, 1770 also causes a fair amount of confusion. In fact, apart from Ray and Gillian in Hervey Bay, I bet that you haven’t got the foggiest idea what I’m talking about…?

1770, sometimes written as ‘Seventeen Seventy”, is actually the name of a town. Not just any town either, for it was the entry point for Captain Cook and his lot into Queensland. In the year 1773. (OK that last digit was a joke, forgive my silly humour.)

The road signs are a little confused too. For instance, usually one would see something like “Brisbane 450” indicating the distance to the destination, in this case the state capital. So in an attempt to avoid a cryptic-looking “1770 120” road sign, the 1170 council decided to refer to the area as “The Town of 1770” on their signs. In usual Aussie style, accepting this place as a ‘town’ requires a massive dose of artistic license — there’s a campsite and a two bars, no shop though.

All said and done, it’s quite a nice place to spend the day by the beach and take the obligatory visit to the headland, which would have been the first piece of Queensland Cook set eyes upon, back in the Seventies. Seventeen Seventies, that is.

Fraser Island: Stuck in a rut (for fun)

Posted by daveb on May 4th, 2009

The weather’s cleared-up a lot and, after spending a week in a luxury home, the memory of soggy camping is becoming a mere distant haze… and to top it off we’ve just spent two glorious days bashing through the world’s biggest sand island in a dirty great, modified Land Rover Defender 4×4. After the professional dune bashing to which we were subjected in Abu Dhabi, we were very excited to get behind the wheel ourselves. This isn’t the first time that we’ve driven through sand on this trip, but two days on Fraser Island’s hard, wet sand highway would provide a totally different experience to revving our way at low speed through soft, dry tracks in the desert.

The tourist office had recently warned us that the eastern beach (i.e the highway) was closed due to “treacherous conditions”, although our 4×4 hire company clarified that it was mostly OK except for a bad stretch which would require some fairly skilful off-road driving — so I let Squiffy do that bit! (Which I must say, she covered very expertly, raising the eyebrows of a number of locals who had chosen to avoid the rocks altogether, instead running the gauntlet against the incoming waves — something we were told not to attempt as salt water wrecks cars!)

Elsewhere, the run along the beach was fine — so long as you kept your eyes out for landing aircraft who share the sand stretch of sand, careering locals and overloaded backpacker’s cars, all of whom were travelling faster than us. The day was tinged with tragedy as, just a few kilometres ahead of us, a backpacker car had overturned killing two of of its passengers and seriously injuring a few more. I gather that the story didn’t make big news back home in the UK, but it was splashed all over the Australian press. Our sympathies are with the affected families. Even before we became aware of the accident, we could not believe how overloaded these backpacker vehicles were: 4×4’s have a much higher centre-of-gravity than a regular road car and that’s before you fill it with eleven backpackers and stuff all of their baggage on the roof… Here’s hoping for some improvements in the legislation to reduce both the speed limits and the number of passengers allowed in each car, even if it means costs go up a little.

Particularly impressive along the beach was the Maheno Shipwreck and the Eli Creek. Inland, we spotted our first dingo (wild dog), very nearly got stuck in the mud and spent a morning swimming around the absolutely clear Lake McKenzie, which has to be seen to be believed.

A glorious couple of days on the island with weather to match — more like this, please Australia!

(Big thanks to Ray and Gillian for sponsoring our cabin accommodation for the night.)

Oops..

Posted by Squiffy on May 2nd, 2009

..skipped a post. The Fraser Island post was published ahead of the Hervey Bay post by mistake… scroll back to see that. 

Hervey Bay: Reliable weather and friends

Posted by Squiffy on May 1st, 2009

After a seven hour drive from Ballina through the torrential rain, we were glad to arrive at Ray and Gillian’s brand new luxury home in Hervey Bay. True family friends, they managed to ignore our bedraggled state and welcomed us in to their home. After a cup of tea and a tour of the grand house, Gillian made us a lovely dinner (the first of many, including a roast for Dave). We settled in to Hervey Bay for a few days of relaxation and mooching around, guided by our very enthusiastic hosts. For the first time since leaving Victoria, the weather finally took a turn for the better, and we enjoyed reliably sunny days drinking tea on the patio and listening to the native birds. Good riddance New South Wales, bring on more of Queensland.

From the comfort of a Habitat armchair, we were able to plan our trip to Fraser Island, the largest sand island in the world, situated just off the coast of Hervey Bay. Four wheel drives are the only vehicles allowed on the island due to the rough sand tracks, so we arranged to hire a Landrover for the weekend to tour the island. Whilst the hire company thought we would prefer the more modern and more comfortable Discovery model, we chose to rent the old Defender as a tribute to my dad who drove from the UK to Australia in a similar old Landrover in the late ’60s. Who needs air-conditioning anyway?? It seemed a bit empty with just the two of us rattling around in the long-wheel base car, so we invited Ray and Gillian along for the ride. They happily accepted on the condition that we upgraded from camping to a cabin (their treat), and of course we whole-heartidly agreed.

Plan: Cook Islands then Home!

Posted by daveb on April 28th, 2009

We’re travelling up the eastern coast of Australia, heading about as far as the Whitsunday Islands before turning around and returning to Brisbane (which we’ve already bypassed) to sell the car and catch onward flights. The Australian weather hasn’t been particularly kind to us at any stage really: it’s either been way too hot, or way too wet to enjoy the stereotypical outdoorsy local activities. As we travelled up the easy coast, we’ve found ourselves skipping some of the places that should have been highlights of our tour. The campsites at Byron Bay over the Easter weekend were full and the weather was dismal, so we drove on to Surfer’s Paradise which we didn’t see either, again because of the heavy rains.

We’ve bypassed Brisbane because we’ll likely return there to sell Don, our car, and fly out of the country. From speaking to the local tourist information yesterday, we’ve learnt that the eastern beaches of Fraser Island are closed to to “treacherous conditions” which is a big shame because these “sand highways” are the most famous bits of the island! The view is that they might reopen on Friday, so we’ll probably hang around to see how the situation develops.

The Whitsunday Islands and the Great Barrier Reef should still provide some decent sailing and Scuba diving, so we’ll still head up that way, but probably won’t go much further. Local advice and our guide book suggests that, as we’re driving the coast instead of the more usual method of flying, Cairns won’t be worth the effort. Port Douglas (north of Cairns) would be a nice stop, but in the heavy rain, is there much point? Hopefully, as we return south to Brisbane, the weather might have cleared enough for us to stop in all the picturesque bays that were flooded on the way up.

The Credit Crunch has helped itself to the value of my half my life’s savings and so it’s befitting that we’re almost exactly half way around the world before my bank balance is starting to indicate that it’s time to start thinking about coming home. Without personal experience the following might be difficult to believe, but even travelling and sightseeing can become monotonous if one does it long enough!

We’re lucky to have a small number of friends and acquaintances dotted around Australia. In addition to the obvious boost of spending time with familiar faces, we get really excited about the prospect of spending a night or two in a bed — we’ve been camping for over five months now and have easily slept six out of seven nights in a tent or the back of a car! I feel like we really deserve a bed again and, of course, a healthy dose of homesickness doesn’t help our appetite for continued travel either!

We were planning to journey east to South America and spend a few months in one of the final travel frontiers, but that would be a mistake for us right now. Much better to return to the world of family, friends, lounges, bedrooms and–dare I say–work, before taking on the last continent. Half of me already knows that, after a few weeks/months, of catching-up with family and friends in the UK, I’ll be sick of the weather and, the doom and gloom in the media, the high cost of living, the now-obvious societal Affluenza, the traffic jams and the overcrowded/overpriced housing (I’m writing this post from the dining table in an enormous, new-build Aussie house which sits on half an acre of land and cost less than our pokey-ish London flat). But that half of me will have to grin and bear the return to the UK before shouting “I told you so”. Assuming that we continue with our newly decided travel plans (below), by the time we touch down in the UK it will have been over twenty-two months–nearly two years–since we began our trip. It hit home when Claire’s best friend, Naomi, recently told her over the phone: “You’ve been away ages. Since you left, I’ve been travelling for a year, got engaged, moved house, bought a car and got a new job!” In fact we’ll only just about be making it home in time for her wedding, which is in Canada (so we obviously already have another mini-travel planned…).

After quite a lot of deliberation, here’s the new plan:

After selling the car in Brisbane, we’ll fly to Raratonga in the Cook Islands and spend up to a week chilling out and doing a bit of snorkelling. We don’t plan to do much sightseeing there, rather will just rest, relax and review our last two years: what we liked, what we didn’t, what we’ve learnt, what we will and won’t say when we get back home — there’s nothing worse than a travel bore after all!

From the Cook Islands, we’ll continue flying east and change planes in LA, but only so that I can legitimately claim that I’ve circumnavigated the globe! Mwahaha! World domination will be mine (in a way).

Sunshine Coast, my *rse!

Posted by daveb on April 27th, 2009

“Queensland – The Sunshine State”, reads the subheading propaganda on the local car’s numberplates. Sunshine? My *rse! We’ve seen nothing of it!

Given the almost continuous overcast skies and rain to which we have been subjected in New South Wales, we decided to head north across the border and into Queensland–The Sunshine State–and I’ve got to tell you, I’ve never seen rain like this. It has been non-stop, torrential horizontal rain since we began the drive six hours ago. The windscreen-wipers have been on full-speed all day and they still haven’t cleared the water. Top speed on the 100km/hr “motorway” has been about 60km/hr today and we’ve aquaplaned most of the way to Hervey Bay, where Claire has family friends, Ray and Gillian, who have an all-important roof. No way would our tent have survived this; it’s way heavier than Syndey’s recent one-in-a-hundred-year storm.

We were planning a number of coastal town stops along the way to Hervey Bay, but through our waterlogged windscreen we couldn’t even see the turn-off signs to the places, so the any chance of sitting on a beach in our bathers is absolutely out of the question. This is the worst weather I’ve ever seen and it must be pretty bad by local standards, given the water line, road closures, ditched cars and police-operated traffic diversions. (The following day’s newspapers confirmed my suspicions.) Unbelievably, Queensland is still in a state of severe drought

Well done to our car Don, once again it completed a tough drive without even blinking.

Ballina: Wi-Fi in a tent

Posted by daveb on April 24th, 2009

Being a technologist (should that be ex-technologist?), I often delight in seeing the implementation of modern technology in everyday environments. Equally, I often wonder if the general public ever stop to think about how such technologies work. For instance, most people can understand how the Royal Mail deliver a letter*, but don’t have a clue what happens to an e-mail once the ‘Send’ button is pushed.

We’ve got a SIM4travel mobile phone card which allows us to receive calls, mostly for free, in almost every country in the world through which we’ve travelled. Think about it: my Mum dials the same number on her landline phone and an unwired device starts ringing in my back pocket. I pick up the call, and I’m speaking–live–with my dear mother who is on the other side of the planet. Using one number, we’ve spoken in Africa, India, Malaysia, Australia, New Zealand and many more. The technology is almost flawless, however my mother’s understanding of time zones is sometimes not! (Sorry Mum, I know I’m just as bad!)

Why am I writing this? I’m having another open-mouth technology worshipping moment. I’m lying on a recently-repaired air bed, in a tent in a campsite in Australia and I’m listening to Squiffy talk–live–to her best friend using Skype running on our miniature netbook computer. Later on, I’ll be checking my e-mails and surfing the Web, without leaving the canvas confines. Tomorrow I might try to have a video call with my mother. From a tent, you hear!

Right now getting fairly-priced Wi-Fi internet access is tricky, especially in Australasia (where it’s up to AUD$8/hour). In less than ten years time, I’m certain that cheap wireless internet will be available globally. Those wireless broadband dongles will be built-in to everything and we’ll wonder how we travelled without always-available, always-on cheap internet access just like many people can’t remember driving without GPS today.

Here’s to technology and all that it’s done, is doing and will do, for us. Cheers!

* Having said that, Squiffy and I are both flummoxed as to how a postcard, posted in Australia arrives at its destination within three days. Reliably. I reckon the cards are scanned in Oz and e-mailed to the Post Office in Blighty, where they are re-printed, moments before being hand-delivered through my Mum’s letterbox. I’m going to get my Mum to test this theory by rubbing a damp thumb across the ink to see if it smudges…

Ballina: A tale of two leaks

Posted by daveb on April 23rd, 2009

Last night we were forced to make imaginative use of a campsite barbecue to cook spaghetti bolognese because our LPG camping stove has developed a rather worrying gas leak. Today’s mission, therefore is to get it fixed. As has been customary for the last two and a half months of our lives, it’s currently weeing down* with rain anyways so seems like a fair use of our time.

Almost every day, I check the oil and coolant levels in Don, our car, and today is no different except–shock, horror–the coolant is down from being at the maximum marker yesterday to just a smidgeon above the minimum today. This is not good news. Don has been, no wait, is a super-reliable machine. He has been partial to a coolant top-up now and again, but that’s quite understandable having transported us through fifty-plus degree heat out west and high forties across the Nullarbor. Since we got back from New Zealand, the sky has been mostly overcast and/or raining and now he wants the green stuff daily. Surely the slower, more congested traffic flow out east isn’t taking its toll on our vehicular linchpin?

We located a friendly camping store who quickly deduced our stove gas leak was due to a missing O-ring on our pipe. A dollar-fifty fix. “Let’s hope my other leak costs the same to fix!”, I exclaimed. At which point an off-duty car mechanic made himself known and offered some advice about the problem.

“It’s almost certainly the head gasket”, he ruled, “goes on Falcons all the time.”

Anyone with even less mechanical knowledge than myself should re-read that sentence as (sung in sinister horror movie backing music style) “Da-da-da, da-darrrrr!”. In fairness to the bloke, he hadn’t actually looked inside the engine bay before giving his diagnosis; he was just trying to be helpful. At a pinch, it might just be the water pump (cheap) or the radiator (not cheap), but most probably the head gasket which would be a three day, AUD$800 job — and, being Easter, most garages here don’t even open for another three days.

Suitably shaken-up, we set about to achieve the almost impossible: to find a mechanic who could diagnose the fault and perhaps start work today. Ballina is a nice enough town, but spending six days here in a wet campsite without a kitchen or TV lounge (read: dry room) would drive us wild and almost certainly mean we’d have to sacrifice a stay elsewhere up the coast. Persistence pays: after driving the damp backstreets for a wee while, we happened upon a workshop with the its roll doors up. Without having to twist anything, this great man sprang into action and, after a multi-angled squizz around the engine cooling system, put a hand-pump pressure tester onto the expansion tank… and its cap.

With the certainty of a doctor removing her stethoscope from her ears, the mechanic held-up the tank’s cap and decreed that it was dead and a a replacement could be procured from a nearby auto spares shop. Total cost AUD$23: $13 for the replacement cap, $10 for a special-offer six pack of beer for the mechanic who has quite possibly saved our bacon.

We now have all fingers, toes and anything else we can get our hands on crossed in the hope that the replacement cap does the trick. I’ll be keeping an even closer eye on the fluid levels before and after our next big drives — will keep you posted.

* I’d just like like to record in this footnote that once again we’ve been told that the current weather–in this case hard rain–is “exceptional” for this time of year. Regardless of our location, we’ve received “exceptional” weather, be it too hot/cold/wet, for over four and a half months now.

Ballina: It never rains, but it pours

Posted by daveb on April 22nd, 2009

We were on our way to Byron Bay and had already battled through six hours of Easter holiday traffic to get within sniffing distance of it. Last night, the Squifter cooked-up a magnificent sweet and sour chicken on the promise that I would deliver spaghetti bolognese to her lap tonight. I thought that I had bought all the necessary ingredients yesterday, because it’s Good Friday today and almost every retailer is closed. Like the doofus I am, of course I forgot to include one of the critical components: tomato sauce. In addition to the big drive, today’s sub-mission has been to find someone to sell me tomato sauce so I can make good of my spagbol promise. A while ago, we passed a road sign saying “supermarket open –>” and, driving on, I reassured Squiffy that there’d be another shop in the next town. I was wrong. The petrol station was open but, alas, didn’t stock a great line in anything remotely pasta-saucy.

Whilst I was inside the petrol station, Squiffy made a sneaky phone call to a campsite in Byron Bay — being the start of the Easter break, she was concerned that getting a pitch might be more difficult than usual. Rightly concerned: all campsites in the town are full for the next three days. We’re told that, in addition to being Easter weekend, Byron Bay is hosting a blues festival which will bring in fifty-thousand punters to a place not much bigger than the head of a pin.

We’re in Ballina, the last major town before Byron Bay, and after dipping into the town’s last motel with a vacant room–for an astonishing AUD$120 a night–we hot-footed it to the tourist information in the hope of some local guidance. As luck would have it the town’s campsite had had a last-minute cancellation (the forecast rain had put off less hardy campers); we jumped into their spot. The campsite manager even sold me a jar of tomato paste from her own personal stock. Everything was going great!

Until, that is, we discovered that, almost uniquely, the campsite had no kitchen. No worries mate, we’ll use our two-burner gas camping stove for a change. And so I chopped the mushrooms and onion, oiled the frying pan and had Squiffy measure the pasta into a saucepan of water. You can imagine how our faces fell on the discovery that our super-cheap gas stove had developed a rather serious leak. A miniature rethink later, and we were barbecuing our beef- and onion-filled frying pan and pasta-in-water pan; pushing in dollar coins to heat the hotplate for ten minutes at a time. As anyone with the slightest scientific mind can imagine, the heat transfer from a camp barbecue to a saucepan of cold water is poor. After throwing two dollars at the problem, it was clear that the beef wasn’t doing much either so I emptied it directly onto the hotplate. To cut a very long cooking story short, the meal turned OK. Turns out, if left long enough, pasta will just about soften-up even without hot water and it is possible to warm tomato sauce in a frying pan on a barbecue, as long as the surface area is large enough…

By the time we had finished our luke-warm food, it was dark. And our recently-cleaned tent was still in the safety of its own carry-bag. We’ll likely stay in Ballina for the next three days or so and so convinced ourselves and each other that we should erect the tent, thus allowing us to leave our vehicle in “car mode” so that we could drive around as we pleased. It was quite a tough decision to unpack our tent: the memories of collapsing our wet, muddy tent onto ourselves and into the back of the car during Syndey’s hundred-year-storm is all too vivid.

I’m pleased to tell you that the tent pitching went a lot better than the night’s cooking. We’ve now pitched and striked* our oversized tent so many times that we can almost do it with our eyes closed. I like to think that we won some credit for the Westies** tonight.

As the saying goes, “it never rains, but it pours” and after the cooking palava, pitch-black tent pitching, the rain came in and poured down on us for the reminder of the night.

* Or should that be ‘struck’, anyone?
** Without talking to us, most folks think we’re from Western Australia, judging from our car’s numberplate. You don’t see many of them WA plates round these them there parts, ya know.

New South Wales’ Beaches: Walks by the sea

Posted by Squiffy on April 21st, 2009

My friend Jackie, who last year married an Australian and moved to Sydney, has just had a baby, Harry. Congratulations Jackie and Andrew, he is very cute. Jackie invited Dave and I to spend a couple of days with her, Harry and a friend at the family beach house on Copacabana (the Sydney one, not the Rio one). We had a relaxing day or two drinking lots of tea, eating Tim Tams and having a walk on the beach. Never able to relax fully on this camping trip, our main task was to clean and air our wet and muddy tent that has been residing in our car for the last week, waiting for a day without rain so we can fully dry it out. Taking the garden hose to the dirty canvas, we once again soaked ourselves in the name of camping, and wrestled the dripping heap onto the balcony to dry. Fortunately, it did, and once again we have clean, but slightly musty, canvas home.

On leaving Copa, we started our next road trip – The East Coast Drive. After five hours of is-this-really-a-highway driving we arrived in Port Macquarie and were pleasantly surprised by the coastal resort and its well located, tropical-feel camp site. We stayed a day to explore the small town and walk along the waterfront, before packing up once again and continuing the journey into northern NSW. I was pleased to see the volunteer ‘Driver Reviver’ stops that I’d told Dave about. Out West, these did exist but were usually at petrol stations, whereas the ones I’d remembered from my previous trip where road side stalls manned by volunteers providing coffee for fatigued drivers doing long trips. Often they were in the middle of nowhere. I don’t know if it was just because it was Easter, but the stall we stopped at gave out coffee AND biscuits! We’ll hope for more of these on our long drive into Queensland.