We spent a few days lazing at the relaxed Butterfly Lodge and eating and drinking at the buzzy Mayoka Village in Nkhata Bay on the rocky shores of Lake Malawi. Concerned readers will be pleased to hear that after three or so restful days in our waterside wooden chalet, Claire has now completed recovered from […]

Thanks to all those who participated in the travel theft quiz. As you will have seen from our recent post, the answer was that I had my bra and thermal socks stolen from Mdokera’s campsite! Nobody guessed exactly, I think Naomi was closest with ’emergency’ pants, as all my pants were taken too, but I […]

Given Claire’s suspected malaria infection, we did what any self-respecting, budget-conscious backpackers would do: Checked-in to the finest room in the most expensive hotel in town. Unfortunately, the fabulous Mimosa Court Hotel in which had stayed the previous couple of nights was full and so, after minimal pleading, we were upgraded without further cost to […]

No, not marriage, but something far scarier: Malaria. Two days ago I started feeling quite sick, very dizzy, tired, weak, achy and had a headache and stomach pains. Familiar with the symptoms of malaria, Dave whipped out our guide book to double check my symptoms. “We’re getting you to hospital right now for a test” […]

With most of my underwear recovered, we were desperate to leave Mdokera’s campsite and head back to our nice hotel in Mzuzu. Mdokera was reluctant to let us leave, probably thinking up ways to explain the stolen items. He insisted on telling us in great detail about his nephew’s sick wife, and we assured him […]

(This is Part 5 of the Mdokera’s Beach Campsite saga, continued from Part 1 – Introduction, Part 2 – Dance Festival, Part 3 – A Bed in a Tree, Part 4 – The Great Escape.) After arriving in Mzuzu, we walked from the bus station and searched for a place to stay. If you’re ever […]

(This is Part 4, and assumes that you’ve read Part 1 – Introduction, Part 2 – Dance Festival and Part 3 – A Bed in a Tree first.) I don’t know how well I’ve conveyed to you, dear reader, the fact that Mdokera was ever-present during our stay and continually mentioning to us how hard […]

(This is Part 3 of our stay at Mdokera’s Beach Campsite. You should definitely read Part 1 – Introduction and Part 2 – Dance Festival first.) Exhausted from the dance festival that Mdokera had organised for us, Claire & I retreated to our tree bed for the evening. Neither of us had slept in a […]

(Continued from Mdokera’s Beach Campsite – Introduction) “When you said that you were getting some dancers to come tonight, you didn’t mention that it would cost us anything. I’ve asked you several times how much it will cost to stay here, and you haven’t told us this either. We want to talk about this now.” […]

We spent only one day and one night at Mdokera’s Beach Campsite near Chitimba, and yet there’s just way too much to write in one post. Over the next few entries I’ll try hard to capture the essence of our experience in my writing, although in my heart I know that I will never be […]