We spent a few days lazing at the relaxed Butterfly Lodge and eating and drinking at the buzzy Mayoka Village in Nkhata Bay on the rocky shores of Lake Malawi. Concerned readers will be pleased to hear that after three or so restful days in our waterside wooden chalet, Claire has now completed recovered from her suspected malaria infection. The night before she got better, a traveller from Greece performed the ‘removal of the Evil Eye’ ceremony on her — who’s to say whether this, or the antibiotics, provided the fix? Whichever, I can say with some confidence that it wasn’t due to the zebra paint-job within our bedroom! She spent the rest of the time swimming in the lake or paddling around in a dugout canoe.

We ventured into the town to visit the weekly market. I braved a local haircut; notice from the photograph below that all cuts cost 50 Kwacha unless–like me–you’re white, in which case the price triples to 150 Kwacha! I had originally asked for a scissor-cut on top, but after plucking my hair with the blunt school-type scissors, I instructed tthe barber to go back to his equally blunt (but less painful) electric razor and take it all off. Ho-hum.

We also did our first freshwater, altitude scuba dive together — which was really cool and there were quite a few things to see. After which, we went straight to the doctor’s surgery to collect some Bilharzia tablets to kill of any of the potentially serious, evil microscopic parasites that we might have picked-up in the lake…

Oh and I should probably tell you about the Chocolate Chief: The local village chief who runs a nightly sideline in imported Cadburys chocolate at the Mayoka Village bar. Claire sends her thanks and regards!

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