I’ve already been to Botswana once before and not visited the Okavango Delta, so this time I didn’t want to miss out on this highly regarded natural site. Whilst some tourists take a scenic flight over the delta to comprehend is sheer size, I prefered to get a little closer to the waterways and take a mokoro trip, that is, be poled along in a traditional dugout canoe.

I’m told that a two or three day trip is best to give you a real sense of wilderness, however, as with all activities in Africa, at around $100 a day this type of trip wasn’t really within our budget. So we talked amongst ourselves and agreed that a full day excursion would at least give us an idea of the delta and a pleasant day on the water.

That was in theory. What we actually experienced was some of Africa’s worst organisation yet and only one hour in a canoe, thanks to the budget tour company we booked through (Note: for fellow travellers, we really DO NOT recommend Audi Camp). The one and a half hour transfer from Maun to the delta turned out to be three hours in a windy and dusty open sided vehicle on a very cold African morning. It wasn’t made any more bearable by the gaggle of American teenagers, harping on about how everything was ‘soooo awesome man’, ‘yeah, like really cool’.

When we arrived at the mokoro station, the polers were nowhere to be seen. Forty-five minutes later, after their arrival, we cautiously edged into our canoes, many of which appeared to be sinking. Ours certainly leaked and gave us wet bums, however, Jasmin and Chris’ needed constant bailing and they eventually had to get out and walk. The time that we had on the canoe was enjoyable, I found it very peaceful gliding along the delta waterways between the tall grasses, and the water-lilies were especially pretty. Unfortunately our experience only lasted for half an hour before we moored up in the bush. ‘This is where we go for a walk’, our guide announced. We looked at each other in surprise, we hadn’t known that part of the trip involved a bush walk in the intense heat of the now midday sun.

‘How long is this walk?’, I enquired, knowing that I’m not too good in the heat. ‘Two and a half hours’, the guide replied, at which many people gasped and whispered amongst themselves about what a crazy idea this was. After a quick briefing on what to do if we encountered dangerous animals (did we run up a tree from the elephant or buffalo, I can’t remember now?) we set out, following the guide in single file. After 20 minutes bush walking and having drunk most of my water, I declared it was time for me to go back. Obligingly, one of the guides led me back to the picnic site whilst the others continued on to the hippo pool. I was fortunate to see an elephant on my return walk, whilst the others saw only one giraffe and a few hippos from a great distance on the rest of their walk. It was pure craziness. In fact, Chris is now suffering with heat stroke.

After a very uninspiring packed lunch we clambered back into the canoes and returned along the route we had come. Again it was pleasant but there was no sense of wilderness because of the number of people in our group (remember those Americans from the truck?). Dave’s favourite moment of the day was when I came back from having a wee in the bush and he asked me teasingly if there was a gents next to the ladies. One whiney girl piped up ‘ooh, are there bathrooms here?’. We groaned.

Very unhappy with the overall experience which should have cost $90, we complained to the manager and told him we were only happy to pay half. We were expecting five hours in a canoe and only had one, the rest of the day was spent waiting around for polers, vehicles and walking through the bush. It was not what we had agreed to. A typical African illogical argument ensued in which he talked loudly over me and kept repeating that ‘you should have been briefed about the day’. ‘Yes, I agree we should have been told what the day really entailed, but that’s your staff’s fault not ours!’ When we refused to pay his meagrely discounted price he threatened to call the cops. ‘Please, go ahead!’, Dave chimed in, but eventually we settled on a price of $50, still too much for an experience that should have been so much more enjoyable.

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