The tourist office blurb proudly claims that Luzern (also writted ‘Lucerne’) is the sixth most visited city. No further qualification is given. I have no idea whether it’s the sixth most visited city in the region, the country, or the world. It seems a little bit strange to me to celebrate coming sixth in something; completed the race, not a podium finish, came somewhere in the middle — it’s the taking part that counts.

Looks-wise certainly ticks my boxes again: Big lake, mountain skyline, large enough to have a buzz and a bit of variety. It’s also full of foreign tourists–like us–which backs up its claims as a “visited city”. Lots of British and Japanese overheard, and a whole cakeload of American too.

It’s been touched by the hand of holidaymakers and, as such, it’s easy to get a Big Mac, a Starbucks, a bag of fine choccies and an expensive watch but it’s impossible to buy a camping gas heater to keep us warm on these cold nights.